I was keen to return to El Puerto, as it is one of my favourite laid back places. I am sad to learn that El Vapor sank and there wasn't even a morning hovercraft so we took the train about 9.30 and on arrival had churros from the lovely lady near the market who has been there for four decades I am told.
We then had coffee by the Iglesia Mayor Prioral. The thirteenth century Gothic frontage has suffered much rebuilding and the shell is now largely Baroque, which does not seems to offend the storks nesting here.
The south door is amazing
We were nicely in time for our free tour of El Castillo de San Marcos. This was built on the site of a mosque by the conquering Alfonso X, the Wise, in 1264. He retained and appreciated much of the Islamic architecture, being enlightened for his times. He appears to be a favourite of my companion.
The building is owned by a 'sherry family' the Caballeros and was restored in the last century. We saw a bizarre altar built by prisoners of the Franco regime from the notorious prison just down the road. So little is known of this recent history. Our guide has studied in Newcastle and is keen to explain all she can. She tells us we are the first British visitors who know who Andrew Motion is. He has managed to get his name on a barrel, presumably for bring a VIP visitor. I don't know whether to laugh or cry.
In 1500 El Puerto resident and sea captain Juan de la Cosa produced his famous mapamundi , the first map to include the continent of America and show Cuba surrounded by water (Columbus never believed that it was an island). The map is reproduced on a wall outside and I believe a street is named after him. The towers of the castle bear the stirring (restored) proclamations of devotion to the Virgin, with whom Alfonso was besotted. In fact, he named a El Puerto after her.
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