Salida

Sad to leave my new friends but looking forward to seeing my loved ones.  Misty morning yesterday in Cádiz but sunny when I left in the afternoon.  Add this to the knowledge that I was missing the tapas night out and you can imagine the gloom and doom

A cruzcampo on the train and some revision cheered me up and the lady sitting next to me was prepared to engage in a little chat.   

And how nice to discover I had been given a room looking on to the patio.  I had a nice cuppa just here  and recovered from the journey in the fading heat. Then I climbed to the roof garden and said hello and goodbye to the Catedral.   I would have liked to look inside but bizarrely for Andalusia, it shuts at 6.

After three failed attempts to escape Barrio Santa Cruz, I finally made it to our tapas venue, La Bodega in Alfalfa and had a jarra, croquettes of bacalao, olives, montadito of queso de cabra y guacamole and see below

It was warm, busy and overwhelming in the centre and the casco antiguo.  The Giralda looked hopelessly gorgeous in the floodlit evening but I feel more at home in Cádiz.  

I slept like a log in the quiet room and breakfasted right next door to avoid getting lost in the labyrinth.  Final zumo de naranja etc

I must ask for this room if I come via this route again

So now Megenandalucia signs out for a few months and prepares herself for Ryanair, the British winter and planning the next trip.  

Cádiz is a great place to spend time as its surrounded by sea, has an atmospheric old town and is totally unspoilt by tourism.  

Sevilla is one of the most beautiful vibrant cities in Spain, and probably the world and it is exhausting! 

Jueves

Clearer today with sea mist.  Good weather Is coming but I am soon heading home

Pleased to report that it was sunny all day with a perfect blue sky so I have had my last swims and postponed the brewery and museo de los cortes till the spring.  Ojalá que yo vuelva.  

Al atardecer en mi barrio 

Caminando por las calles

Drizzle after classes today and I felt a cold coming on.  Managed a siesta and decided to get out and about,when it became dry and warm. I immediately felt better to be in the environment of Casco Antiguo.  It's unique and friendly.  

And I can see why they use it in film sets to pose as Habana.  

In the distance you can see San Lorenzo Martir. 

But I decided to head for the eighteenth century Hospital de Mujeres.  It is one of the finest Baroque buildings in the city, built as a hospital for women arriving in the port who got sick and frequently died in the doorways of public buildings. The hospital’s main chapel , dedicated to San Francisco, is an exuberant Baroque extravaganza and displays a brilliant El Greco, St Francis in Ecstasy.  

This painting is to be found in the main chapel, where I sat for a while thinking about my Mum. 

The hospital has  two elegant patios linked by an unusual double sided staircase.  

It has been painstakingly restored from a state of dilapidation. 

Afterwards, I investigated Maier, a craft brewery but it was shut up.  Have sent an email and hope to visit before I leave.  I am very encouraged to discover that Cadiz has such a place.  !!! 

I therefore cheered myself up in my local with a Galicia beer which was not bad at all.  

Today I was too late for La Iglesia de San Felipe Neri and the Museo de las Cortes de Cádiz, so I hope to visit tomorrow, my last day.   I am so keen to learn about how democracy moved forward in Spain in the early 19th century; the UK still has no constitution; but I also must 'ir de tapas com mis amigos' 

Vamos a ver. 

Iglesia De Santa Cruz

After a short swim, too many waves, I decided to visit the Iglesia de Santa Cruz.  It is essentially the Catedral Vieja and is next to the Catedral Nueva .  The original  thirteenth century church was, as per usual, built on top of a mosque, and was almost destroyed by the Earl of Essex during the English assault on Cádiz in 1596, so the current church is effectively a seventeenth century rebuild with only occasional vestiges such as the entrance arch surviving from the earlier Gothic structure. The sober grey stone interior contrasts with the magnificent seventeenth century gilded retablo, a beautiful work with sculptures by Martínez Montañés, as is the Capilla de los Genoveses, its own stunning retablo of red, white and black Italian marble now wonderfully restored.

 I found the church to be welcoming and spent some time there listening to a mass before heading for cerveza by the market then braving Carrefour where I encountered some very friendly people which was just as well, as the queues were horrendous.  I learnt that mussels are good for the red blood cells. Full of iron.  Is this true? 

Martes

Here is a photo from the station at Jerez yesterday.  Wish they would spruce Cadiz Station up like this.

Today my companion has left so I am a little lonely but happy too, that all went so well and we will meet again soon.  I will spare you the sad selfie we took at the beach.  

But here is my sunrise as I walked from the station after having said Goodbye.  

Alcazar, Jerez de la Frontera

Constructed in the twelfth century by the Almohads, though much altered since, Jerez’s substantial Alcázar has been extensively excavated and restored in recent years. The gardens have received particular attention: the plants and arrangements have been modelled as closely as possible on the original. 

The eighteenth century Villa Villavicencio was added by a random Duke and houses an old pharmacy;  I think they had to diversify to make ends meet.  

The interior of the Alcazar contains a well preserved mosque complete with mihrab from the original structure, now sensitively restored to its original state after having been used as a church for many centuries.

It's very tranquil.  Gorgeous. 

 There’s also a bathhouse, see above,  modelled by the Almohads, on those of the earlier Romans with cold and hot plunges, just as I have seen in Bath and Harrogate.  

The roof has openings in the shape of stars giving very effective soothing lighting, not unlike that seen in the steam room of my lovely local gymn.  Which I'm missing. A bit. 

Finally, we were able to see the olive press, mill wheel with bread oven and towers. 

La Catedral, Jerez de la Frontera

The cathedral is gorgeous with a 15th century separate tower.  When I return in the spring, I must visit the cathedral when it is open.

San Dionisio, Jerez de la Frontera

We found the gorgeous Plaza de la Asuncion and looked at San Dionisio. 

Jerez de la Frontera

Overcast today so perfect for a train trip to Jerez de la Frontera.  And what better way to start the day then with churros and café con leche by the Mercado.  It's a festivo today as yesterday was October 12th, a national holiday in Spain commemorating when Columbus arrived in the Americas.  

We walked up from the station in Jerez to Barrio Santiago.  

The interesting churches were shut but viewing the outside was fulfilling in itself.  First stop is the 15th century San Miguel, shown above.  It has an 18th century facade with blue and white Azuelos at the top of its tower.  

Evening beach experience then paseo

Had to run out of the sea as a massive wave knocked me over.  Minutes later the heavens opened and we ran for cover to the amusement of chicos in our local.  

Hot shower and out for a wander

El parque y El teatro